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Vegetarian Middle Eastern Cooking Is Not a Compromise

Most of the Levantine repertoire was already meatless, because meat was expensive and fasting traditions are old. These are dishes designed to be eaten without meat, not adapted to be.

Outspoken Digest Food Desk

Friday, August 14, 2026/3 min read

A mezze table of dips, salads and pulses with flatbread, no meat on it
Editorial illustration generated for Outspoken Digest

A large part of the Levantine repertoire is vegetarian by origin rather than by adaptation. Meat was expensive, Lent in the Eastern churches is long and strict, and the result is a body of dishes built to be satisfying without it. This is the opposite of most cuisines, where the vegetarian option is the main course with the centre removed.

The word for it in Arabic Christian cooking is siyami, meaning fasting food, and it covers a great deal of what people now order as mezze.

Why it works

Three structural reasons, and they are worth understanding because they transfer to your own cooking.

Pulses carry the meal. Chickpeas and lentils provide protein and, more importantly, the density that makes a plate feel finished.

Tahini and olive oil provide richness. Fat is what most vegetarian food lacks, and Levantine cooking is generous with both.

Acid and herbs prevent monotony. Lemon, sumac, pomegranate molasses and enormous quantities of parsley keep a meatless table from tasting flat.

The dishes that stand on their own

Mujadara

Rice and lentils with caramelised onions, and the single best argument in this entire article. Cheap, ancient, and genuinely one of the best things in the cuisine rather than one of the best meatless things. The onions must go further than you think. Recipe.

Fattet hummus

Chickpeas, toasted bread, garlic yogurt and pine nuts, layered while hot so the bread half softens. A complete meal that happens to have no meat in it. Recipe.

Warak enab

Vine leaves stuffed with rice, tomato and herbs. The meatless version is not a lesser version; it is the one eaten cold, dressed with lemon and oil, and it is arguably better. Recipe.

Moutabal and hummus

The two dips that anchor a mezze table. Both entirely vegetable, both built on tahini. See moutabal and hummus done properly.

Falafel

Fried chickpea fritters, the region's most exported dish, and vegan without anyone having to plan it that way. Recipe.

Batata harra

Potatoes fried and tossed with garlic, coriander and chilli. Deserves to be a main more often than it is. Recipe.

Kousa mahshi, meatless

Stuffed courgettes with rice, tomato and herbs, cooked in a tomato broth. Recipe.

The salads

Tabbouleh and fattoush, both of which are substantial enough to be lunch.

How to build a meatless table

The mistake is to cook one large vegetarian main. The tradition does not work that way; it works by putting six or seven small things out together, and the variety is what creates satisfaction.

A workable structure:

  • Two dips, one tahini-based, one not.
  • One substantial pulse dish, mujadara or fatteh.
  • One fried thing, falafel or batata harra.
  • One sharp salad, tabbouleh or fattoush.
  • One pickled thing, and plenty of bread.

That feeds four people generously and nobody at the table asks where the meat is.

Vegetarian and vegan are not the same here

Worth flagging, because Levantine cooking uses dairy heavily. Yogurt, labneh and cheese run through the repertoire, and fatteh in particular is built on garlic yogurt.

Most of these dishes are naturally vegan: hummus, moutabal without yogurt, falafel, mujadara, batata harra, the salads, warak enab in its cold form. Where yogurt is structural, our cultured cashew labneh substitutes convincingly, which is not true of most commercial dairy alternatives.

For where to eat this way in the region rather than cook it, we have guides to Dubai and Abu Dhabi and to Beirut.

Published in The Outspoken Digest

Editorial desk

Outspoken Digest Food Desk

Cooking, ingredients, restaurants and the economics of what ends up on the table.

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